Stepper burned out

#21

Wow. Your setup looks amazing. Congrats. I’ll get there eventually. But for now, I just want to put a single e3dv6 into the zim. So with a single e3dv6, I dont need to drill and tap anything? Do I use the big round heatsink that comes with the e3dv6? ---->

How do I mount the e3d using the zims nipple and a washer and how do I mount it without drilling and tapping? Where do I mount it to and which nipple are you referring to? Also, do I still need to put the filament extruder and feed motor on the back of the zims case? Or can i just leave the original zim’s setup where it is?
Im still a little lost so any help is appreciated. Btw, thanks for posting the pics and your zim looks really nice with those 2 e3d’s.

#22 
_**[quote="Dgbrit, post:1, topic:630, full:true"]
I was having repeated problems with my prints loss of feed from the extrude on the right side of my prints was about to give up and throw it in the trash ,The the feed stepper started jiggering and I knew exactly what the problem was . A wire in that thick ribbon cable finally broke . so I changed the whole extruder for a e3dv6 with a remote feeder. What a difference heats up in half the time .now all I have to do is install my heated bed we it arrives. To take up the height to the bed discrepancy. But ordered longer nozzles and tubes as well just in case I want to use the stock bed. Doesn't look pretty but at least it's working can tidy you later and add the second e3d extruder
[/quot
```<img src="/uploads/default/original/1X/123288bf05b1d885f045c2cc4fc329d677370331.jpg" width="312" height="500">
#23

I think you might want to buy a stepper motor instead of removing the drive gear from the zim one as that is the tricky bit or just buy the whole extruder with motor. $35

#24

<img src="/uploads/default/original/1X/643647865f49a1e187a324531e3f09f29eaeef1a.jpg" width=“312” height=“500”
Or you can buy one of these from local ace hardware and forget. About the 50mm. Tube. …Inserted on top of the extruder and that will extend it so it teaches the bed.

#25

1487100495156-1240246850.jpg2560×1600 1020 KB

#26

Ohh ok. I get now what you were trying to say. The drawing helped me realize what youre talking about. That is a great idea. I am in the process of ordering all the stuff. So basically the only thing holding the whole hotend would be that brass nipple? Will it be tight enough and stable to print? Did you try it this way before?
Either way this is a nice way to mount it. Thanks so much. I cant wait to print in Nylons, Petg, Carbon Fiber, and all the abrasive filaments etc. Im pretty sure I can get away with printing carbon fiber and copper bronze with the original zim but these filaments eat away at the nozzle. The original zim nozzles are hard to find and even when you do find them, they cost more than a full hotend would cost. The e3d v6 nozzles are like $0.50 each plus other parts are replaceable and cheap also.

Please let us know your progress and have you made any nice prints yet?

#27
  • would definitely get the extender its $2.50 as I had to machine down a socket to get the zim nipple.unscrewed from the top but using the extender you can tighten it from. underneath. Then you have a solid mount to screw the hotend too.
    Yes its solid and print perfect. Not one feed problem at all with. Petg nice and shiny at 240deg
1 Like
#28

I have been printing some hair dryer mounts that I am selling multiple prints kind of boring.actually rip one off print another. Over and over lol the only exciting bit is a different color

#29

Watch out the screw that holds the thermister on my clone was so tight the wires were shorted I had to replace it
Of course they come in a pack of 10 with extra long wire.
It seems like I now have a lifetime supply of spare parts

#30

Nice solution here, for the fan/s, hot ends and thermisters are you bypassing the circuit board and splicing right into the ribbon cable? If so do you think you do some sort of diagram of what wires splice into where on the ribbon cable? From your one write up and pictures its clear that the outer 4 wires on each side are for the extruders. Thanks again for posting this!

#31

I still connect to the circuit board but eliminated the plugs and soldered directly to the back of it as I was getting erratic temperature signals. That fixed it
Still plug the fans in original. Sockets

#32

Not pretty but it works!

1 Like
#33

IMG_3453.JPG3264×2448 1.78 MB

Looking better :slight_smile:

#34

Hi Call what slicer are you using?
I just tried slic3r and it wasnt all that gteat
I was using curia and it was good but there were. A lot of people said its better.

#35

Hi,

I use Simplify3d nowadays for most of my Zim prints. I was using Slic3r but moved to Simplify3d when I made the move to Octiprint via a Raspberry Pi. I have had really good luck with this setup.

One thing I had to do with this bowden style setup is to reduce the extrusion multiplier. Replacing the direct feeds with the bowden style works but alters things quite a bit. I really need to go back and adjust the extrusion steps in the firmware but for now just dialing things down in Simplify3d really helps.

You also need to play with your retraction settings too. All in all I like this setup compared to my other Zims, being able to leverage a lot of open source parts will keep this thing running a bit longer. This was a “dead” parts machine so thanks for starting this post. I had a similar idea to this one a while back but never had the motivation to do it until now.

Completely replace the hot end / head
#36

I was reading some of my early posts and the spell checker was having a ball .Hopefully you can make sense out of the garbage.
Its been about a week now and not one problem except for a couple of tries with slic3r instead of cura. It seems something wasnt set right but i changed the filament to pla at the same time.
Totally broke my rule of only changing one thing at a time. But do it all the time lol
I did dial back the amount of filament that is extruded on the slider in octopi to around 65-70% as the nozzle is bigger this can be done on the fly just as adjusting the temp while printing.
The heated bed arrived but i didnt realize i need another power supply and relays to get it going or maybe just leave it as is cos it works fine.

#37

By the way Cal it looks like your e3dv6 is longer than mine (no pun) i wondered how you got it close too the bed with no modification mine was about 15mm shy plus the heatbreak tube was 7mm in the heatsink and 6mm into the heatblock
I did order a couple more different heatblocks with 6mm internal threads
I always double up on my orders sometimes just to have a spare but this time it was cos i felt guilty $1.65 free shipping.

#38

I used this:

And added a 3d printed fan shroud, I took a chance on this one since it was cheap, had ok reviews and claimed to have a larger heat block, I was hoping that it would make up the distance, which it did.

#39

Did you have to do any additional polishing or modification to that clone or did it work “out of the box” for you?

#40

worked right out of the box for me.