Here´s the link to my G-Code handbook.
http://1drv.ms/1ZcHrXO
or
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=B2A53EE4BB8C1B66!2150&authkey=!ALQ26QgJkpsGmf8&ithint=file%2Cpdf
Feel free to download and use…
G-Code Handbook
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Because I have no faith in One Drive 
I’ll mirror your file here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m8jiir5mv4dhqro/G-Code_Handbook_2015_10_07.pdf?dl=1 (FIXED THE LINK)
3 Likes
Hi, wondering if you still have the G-code Handbook somewhere? Thanks a bunch!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it. I’m not quite sure why I’m trying to get this old Zim to work, but I’m giving it a solid try.
I can tell: because ZIM really is a good machine. It´s pretty precise (I usually have less than 0.1mm deviation) and robust. After I switched to a chinese E3D-clone-hotend, I even use ZIM in my company to make pre-series samples for our customers.
I’d be interested to know more about the E3D-clone-hotend, because right now (with a heated bed) anything I begin to print just starts coming up off the print bed, and It looks like the problem may be from irregular extrusion feed, though I’m not sure. I’ve replaced the control with a Raspberry Pi 3 and the newest Octoprint software. Thanks again.
Okay, here you are:
Also see: ZIM Hardware-Mods which is my ZIM at home.
I used the wires from the original ribbon cable. You can check out the cables with a multimeter, or you could trust me and use the following configuration: (the names of the wires are written on the connector that connects to the mainboard. Or you can count the wires in the ribbon cable beginning fron the side where the outermost wire is red, which is A1. As are red, Bs are black. it´s like A1, B1, A2, B2…)
A1 Motor0 Pin3
B1 Motor0 Pin4
A2 Motor0 Pin1
B2 Motor0 Pin2
A3 Fan1 + cooler for the Part
B3 Fan1 -
A4 Therm sensor for E1
B4 Therm sensor for E1
A5 LED ext +
B5 LED ext -
A6 Therm sensor for E0
B6 Therm sensor for E0
A7 Fan2 + for coldend
B7 Fan2 - for coldend
A8 Motor1 Pin3
B8 Motor1 Pin4
A9 Motor1 Pin1
B9 Motor1 Pin2
I´m not sure if I switched the fans… but you´ll find out.
There are some diodes on the original PCB of the Printhead to avoid feedback current when a fan is switched off. Those are not absolutely essential, although I give no guarantees.