Great idea Insomnia. Thanks for taking the time to put this information together. I have a couple of my own experiences to share, for what it is worth. It is hard to say how common some of these issues are, and how many were corrected since us early adopters.
I’ve had my Zim since early November, and also encountered a lot of the same issues you mentioned. Biggest being the filament feed as you eluded to in your guide. I did have two of the original factory cartridges jam, but I may attribute this to poor quality early on. One of them I carefully pried open and the little black o-ring wasn’t even in there. Also the cartridges have all been cracking, undoubtedly due to the spring adjustment you mention being incorrect from the factory. The printer has worked pretty flawlessly since nixing the cartridge mechanism though, plus I like using the big rolls. I don’t think I’ll be going back 
I’ve also had issues with soldered components. The thermocouple leads on one extruder just fell off, the heatshrink was the only thing holding it together.
I’ve had leaking nozzles. Apparently some of them were not assembled properly at the factory and could leak from the top side of the heater block. Zeepro was aware of this issue, as soon as I sent a picture of the leaking goo all over the block and fan shroud they confirmed it and sent me a new assembly. The new one has not leaked a drop.
I’ve also had a number of jams inside the heat sink area of the extruder. One cause I found is that slightly bent filament can come out of the teflon tube and mis-align when feeding through the extruder feed gear, and ends up going into the cavity in the heat sink instead of the top of the nozzle. Keeping the intial filament straight when starting a new spool solved this problem for me. Another I encountered was having a blob of plastic on the end of the filament jam up during the unload process, not allowing the filament to feed back out the teflon tube. For this I remove the teflon tubing and take the teflon tube lock out, and can usually clear out the problem without taking the head apart.
A final issue I’ve had is having the z-axis go crazy mid print and move the platform more than a single layer, enough that the nozzle is printing in mid air. I’ve had this happen twice now. It never happened on my own models, and I’ve traced it back to bad models from Thingiverse. The slicer appears to not detect these faulty models, and creates bogus g-code that is doomed to failure. Logically, this would seem like an easy thing to detect in software, since it is apparent the z-axis is moving multiple layers before attempting to print anything. I think they err on the side of model correctness however, and therefore allow the g-code to run, even if it is a bit suspect coming out of the slicer.
So far I’d say the printer works pretty well once I learned the little things to avoid though. I’ve certainly been happy, even impressed at times, with the quality this printer has been able to achieve. I think your guide will really help users achieve the printer’s full potential.
