Usually the cooling fan should be turned off at least for the first 2-5 layers. After that, you can turn it on, between 25 and 60%, depending on your needs. I experienced more warping of overhangs with a higher cooling, so don´t set it too high.
if this fails, you can do a PID tuning run (self adjusting the values for your heaters), as you can read HERE (pages 61 and 62 I think…)
In octoprint, goto the Terminal (set the checkmarks to ignore all the temperature readings and so on), and type
M303 E0 C10 S195
, in which E0 means your first extruder (the right one), C10 means to heat up and down 10 times (for more accurate results), and S195 means that your Target temperature is 195°C.
The extruder will heat up and cool down ten times (Jep, takes time…) and read the behaviour of the heaterblock. When finished, you´ll get some KP KI and KD values in the Terminal. Write them down.
Now, you´ll have three options:
- Write the values into the EEPROM with the command
M500 M301 H1 Pxxx Ixxx Dxxx
, using the P I and D values that you wrote down before (b.t.w: M500 = write into EEPROM) And: Yes, this time the first extruder is 1, not 0.
Write the values into EEPROM using the “Marlin EEPROM Pugin”, if installed in octoprint from it´s plugin repository (That thing is EXTREMELY handy…)
Put the “M301 H1 Pxxx Ixxx Dxxx” command in the startup G-Code script in octoprint or in the before-print-started-script. So, you don´t have to mess around with the EEPROM, and the values are applied everytime your ZIM boots or starts printing.