Print objects have gaps

#1

Hi,
in the meantime I have printed lots of objects and used 2kg of filament already.
I have learned a lot and there is so much more to learn.

In all my prints, when it comes to finer details, I have gaps on the right side.
I have no idea what to do to get a better result or how to avoid gaps altogether.
Here is a sample of what I mean:

Next to the medaillon I made (my first two color model ever made…juchu) is the alignment print.
It looks fine to me, but has a gap on the right lower edge as well.
But its not a problem with dual colors. I have this gap problem with single color prints as well.
I used high quality with 5mm brim setting.

The dents in the edge of the medaillon are from the nozzle hitting the not totally solidified PLA.

#2

Hello,

I’ve been having the same problem with gaps in general. My prints never look as solid as they should. And lettering often comes out as yours did – with an outline then a space and then the infill. I have to admit though your prints look much better (and cleaner) than mine. Especially the nozzle calibration print on the left.

Btw I think there is a setting where you can adjust the nozzle settings based on how that calibration print came out. I tried doing that once but it didn’t seem to make a difference. I might have to go back to it once I get my other issues worked out. You might want to try that.

-Alia

#3

Hi Alia,
I spent lots of hours on the nozzle height calibration and print bed calibration to get it leveled.
The two color calibration I skipped as it seemed correct to me.

But I guess the gap problem is more like software related. I hope someone with more insight of the slicer can point to a solution or a better result.

How does your coaster (in the Zeepro library) look like?
This is my result with highest quality:

Its more or less all gaps.

#4

rotate the parts to be printed 90 degrees and print them again. See if the gaps are in the same place on the parts or occur at the same place relative to the machine. If the gaps are in the same place on the rotated parts the problem is with the gcode/slicing. If the gaps on the rotated parts are 90 degrees from the original parts, ie in the same location relative to the machines build plate, the problem may be back lash on the Y-Axis. My experience says it is backlash since the gaps are consistently on the same side of the part. You can also measure a circular print with a caliper and see if it is round or oval shaped. Check out this thread for guidance. http://zeeproforums.technobly.com/t/circle-shape-is-oval/

#5

Yes this is exactly how my print of the coaster looks (when it sticks which right now seems to be my bigger problem). All my shallow prints end up like this with gaps. I think I even sent pics to Zeepro but they weren’t sure what the problem was. When I print anything taller it looks great in the Z direction but from above I can see gaps and sometimes right through the object.

#6

Thank you rnordell for the work you did documenting your own fix. I have a (bad) feeling that it is a backlash issue with the Y-axis as you mentioned. Like 3DPrintEvangelist I was hoping it was just a software issue. While I’ve managed to changed out a nozzle and make other small fixes, I don’t think I have the expertise to make a repair like that. I’ll have to contact Zeepro about this once I confirm it is the Y-axis issue. Maybe they will let me ship it to them for repair (I’m in California)… :frowning:

#7

Ok, now that I know what to look for I have found that the Y direction belt is the problem and I expect for all Zim users to have this problem. The belt hops every time direction changes.

This should be solved by Zeepro.

Is this misaligned cross the same problem or another thing?

I am having difficulties printing connecting parts that can actually connect.

#8

Next attempt was with all speed settings set to 25% and 90° rotation and a little bigger in size just to test out a few things.
There was no real improvement.

#9

I improved the gap issue dramatically.
My problem was that the rear lower belt was loose and the top belt was very tight.
I loosened the two screws of my left rear metal wheel. The tension balances out.
I then tighened the lower belt a little more and fixed the screws again.
Now things look way better and gaps are mostly gone.

#10

I’ve had the same “gaps” issue for all of my parts. It’s pretty annoying. I guess I have this backlash issue as well. @3DPrintEvangelist any chance you could post a picture with the arrows to what screws and belts you adjusted? Also did you fix your lego cross issue as well with this tension adjustment? Thanks!

edit: perhaps the second half of this proceedure is along the lines of what you adjusted?
https://zeeproks.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/5000049731-how-to-fix-a-loose-x-axis-belt-

#11

Yes, you are correct. The procedure from point 13 is what I did, plus a little more tension on the lower belt manually.
Because the tension on the side without the spring does not adjust after screws are tightened again.

I have not tried the lego cross again, but will give it another try and am curious about the result.
I just did a lot of medaillons and noticed a lot improvements there.

#12

So here are two attempts:

Its better but still far from correct.
I dont know what to do to further improve the correct aspect ratio.

#13

Well that aspect ratio looks perfect now, maybe just a little melty. Perhaps a higher resolution and maybe slightly lower temp and/or some auto fan? I’ll try this cross pattern on mine and see how it looks… maybe with a small medallion to test print faster.

#14

The pictures are kind of misleading. Its better but still not good. In reality the one side of the cross is “higher” than the other side. The fast picture shows it a little better.
So a lego cross piece does not fit without forcing it in.
But maybe its the same issue as with the surface gaps you can see. Its not a closed surface.

I am out of ideas how to improve the results.

#15

can you share the stl file of the cross print so I can do a test print?
Thanks

1 Like
#16

Hm,I cannot upload .stl files.
But here is the link to Thingiverse: