Good prints and settings

I had been asked by one of the members here to post my settings, and figured id show off some of my prints while I’m at.

I copied my settings into slic3r and had it post a config file. But i only changed the settings in slic3r that there was access to change inside of zim.


generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on Sat Jul 18 12:08:12 2015

avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200
bed_temperature = 0
before_layer_gcode =
bottom_solid_layers = 3
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 60
brim_width = 0
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 0
default_acceleration = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
dont_support_bridges = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n
external_fill_pattern = rectilinear
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width = 0
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_colour = #FFFFFF
filament_diameter = 1.75
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 30%
fill_pattern = honeycomb
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 0
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0
first_layer_height = 0.25
first_layer_speed = 40%
first_layer_temperature = 190
gap_fill_speed = 15
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 0
infill_speed = 80
interface_shells = 0
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.15
max_fan_speed = 100
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 10
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.35
octoprint_apikey =
octoprint_host =
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 40
perimeters = 3
post_process =
pressure_advance = 0
raft_layers = 0
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 1
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 40
seam_position = random
skirt_distance = 5
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 5
small_perimeter_speed = 75%
solid_infill_below_area = 0
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 75%
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n
support_material = 1
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 75%
support_material_pattern = rectilinear-grid
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 100
support_material_threshold = 0
temperature = 180
thin_walls = 1
threads = 2
toolchange_gcode =
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 50%
top_solid_layers = 3
travel_speed = 100
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
vibration_limit = 0
wipe = 0
xy_size_compensation = 0
z_offset = 0

Here are some pictures of parts i printed, all with the exact same settings described above.

more pics

NICE! I was planning to do a video guide on slic3r settings… :slight_smile: seems like you got it covered. Thank you so much

I did some setting play with slic3r as well this week.
by following the guide provided by Z pro here

Blue Hatchbox PLA
218-220 (pretty smooth layer)

10mm cute test
X,Y variability 10.18mm, 10.16mm
Z, 10.25mm

After this I did some tweaking with the extrusion multiplier, the print quality is pretty similar, and by decreasing the number from 1 to 0.95 the length of the 10mm cute did go down to match the target length of 10mm. Surprisingly, I tried the Slic3r preset “Simple Mode” today, and actually works pretty well visually, the sides of the cube seems to be more even. (not sure if it is just by luck).

I did notice some problem of my prints, sometimes the extrusion is fine, sometimes the extrusion split up small balls connected by strings that is similar to to the result of PLA not sticking to the surface. This condition happens every 30s to 1 minute for a few seconds during the print and rarely on the first layer… I wonder if the nozzle is clogged or resistance with filament fitting? or is it a slicing setting that is odd.

Here is my current setup, using jpod’s filament attachment model.


The blobbing issue you described i found to be a symptom of a clogged extruder, i just had the same thing happen to me last week.

I am using Simplify3D instead and my initial print left me with a lot of questions.

The settings seem fine to me and represent the “Fast printing preset” from original Zim software.
But it seems that the temperature is not stable and drops, can be restored, drops again, and so on.
Any ideas?

Also there seems to be some timeout things with the Zim. After the print the Zim was not answering G-Code anymore.
A total reset and it worked again. But could this happen during printing as well and thats causing the strange print result?

I will have an eye on the temperature with my next print attempt.
Maybe afterwards I am trying to translate your posted Slic3er settings to a Simplify3D profile.

Hey tookys, and MartinKing, since you guys have been running the ZeePro on open source software, do you guys know how to enable the fans? mine right one turns on when it is printing, but the left one is never on, I tested the fan, and it works with a 9V battery.

I wonder what’s the magic setup is :octopus:

Thanks in advance!

This I have answered several times in other threads.
The left fan is for cooling the print and the right for cooling the print head.
So the left fan is only on when you have it enabled in your slicer settings.
The commands are:
for ON: M106 S255
for OFF: M107

But as for many (or most?) people they operate it without the head cover and the plastic from the fan outlets have melted, the cooling feature cannot be used and results in cooling the hotend resulting in a clog.
So far no one has come up with a solution (there is another thread for that).

So, next print with Repetier and the settings from tookys.

So no improvement for me.
I watched the temperature closely and it was solid.
But nonetheless it seems to start fine and degrades.
Any ideas?

Im thinking either a partially clogged nozzle, or the feeder motor isnt keeping up with the extruder motor.

Hmm, 3DPrintEvangelist, if you have the same problem that I have (long story short… I have located the problem today, but still havent have time to fix it)

After cleaning the nozzle for the 3rd time today with harsh chemicals and drill, my print still feels like having a differential in extrusion speed… after careful observation without the heating block and nozzles I found out that even with just the solid filament, the extrusion gears for the left extruder cant grip it firm enough; resulting to slipping from time to time for a few seconds. The print result looks like this…

I wonder if it is the same issue, but just worst.
It is strange, because this happens only with my left extruder, my right extruder is working like a champ.
I will take it apart tomorrow to see if I can fix them.

Have someone fixed the extrusion gears before ? @@ is it easy to do?

I have further analyzed my problem and can exclude a clogged nozzle and slipping gears.
Its a brand new nozzle and with manual extrusion control (100mm/min) extrusion works perfect, even for longer periods of time. So no clog and no slipping.
I put my finger to the motor and drive and it simply does not move enough. Often for seconds its even stands still.
Furthermore I have inserted the filament directly from top, so that the bottom motor is unused. No change. Still too little feeding.
So definetly a filament feeding problem.

But I have not found a setting to set the filament extrusion speed.
Is there a command for setting the filament feeding speed, similar to limiting the Z-Drive speed (M203 Z5 ;mm/sec) or any other trick?

I have a dual extruder. Both extruders behave the same.

Repairing the gear. I am using the custom motor carrier from thingiverse and that is working fine with me.
If the gears still slip I can only think of somehow sharpening the teeth of the gear.

Please post your Slic3r / Repetier printer settings, especially the retraction settings.
I left it on default 40mm/sec and it made a strange noise with manual control retraction. Now the motor wont move anymore, just makes clicking sound.

So what is the correct retraction speed?
Why is manual control retraction way faster than extrusion, although with 40mm/sec it should be less than 100mm/sec I used for extrusion?

Hey 3DPrintEvangelist
I have saved a configuration file. not sure if this includes the G-code setup.

My retraction is at 1mm with 40mm/sec and this is the most current test print for my printer with that setting

Currently, the printer is on the process of printing something bigger 10cm diamenter x 4 cm height disk like thing. So far it seems to have the into the issue of the idle extruder running into some excess heights (avg 10 minutes i can hear it pushing the spring loaded plate down) from previous layers that the other extruder printed… other than that it seems to be so far so good…
I am thinking to just screw the idle nozzle in more… to prevent it from hitting in the future until I want to experiment with 2 nozzle printing

After a lot of testing and debugging there are several problems at once.

I checked every cable for defects and replugged all connections.
Afterwards the motor was running again. Don’t know if its just coincidence.
Then tried printing again. Result was inconsistent. Some areas no filament and some perfect.
So I removed teflon tube and printing was better.

In the end I removed the top cover and made sure all cables and teflon tubes are bent as little as possible.
Now one 10x10cm print is running and it seems to work.

your print looks fantastic.
What did you change to have a more consistent result?
Thank you for the settings file.
But its only the slic3r config again.

For Slic3r there are three settings files:

  • printer
  • filament
  • slic3r

Hey 3D, is it the export bundle?
if it is, try this link

My mileage is quite low on ZeePro, with about 2 days of use after a week and half of troubleshooting (got a salvaged unit on cragslist).

This unit did not work well with the ZeeProShare interface. Due to a very specific Zee board problem which resulted in Z stepper motor random stepping at higher RPM. I could print at low RPM (2-3mm/s) but after 2 days I replaced the board with another salvaged ZeePro printer. Which solved that crazy motor stepping issue. With the slic3r default, and preset mentioned here my right nozzle was printing well.

Then I tried to print with the left nozzle, and problem surfaces once more.
After few days troubleshooting I found out the gears that’s driving the filament is having serious slipping issue. Sometimes it lose the grip for a few seconds even without any resistance, core filament not advancing while the motor still turning. resulting in this kind of stuff

people thought it was nozzle clog, but it wasn’t. I cleaned the thing inside out, with drill bits and sonicator. put everything back together, and exactly the same cube prints.

just some pictures to share while I was doing the take apart.

Anyways, pretty much disassembled the block, cleaned the gear teeth, reassembled everything tightly yesterday, and today the “right nozzle” is working great, was able to get a 6 hours of printing none stop.

This is one of the print I did today, too bad I can’t show you guys other stuff due to NDA.

I havent get around to get another spool of filament to test the left extruder, which was the bad apple “slippage problem”. my other spool is coming tomorrow, I will let you guys know how it goes, if it is gone good news, if it is still doing this kind of shibang

then I really dont know what to do with the slipping problem.

Thanks a lot.
Those are a lot of settings you already have and all is there printer, filament and slicer.
This evening I am going to start testing as well.
What I noticed yesterday with my one test print, that I have a lot of vibration for some head travel (if its a long straight line).
As I did not have that with Zeepro interface, it must be some speed setting. But maybe your config already solved this.

Your print really looks great.
How did you manage that? Did you use the fan for cooling?
Once I use the cooling fan, it mostly cools my hotend and results in a fast clogging.
And I can see your Fan outlets are not melted or warped. You are lucky.
I can see you are still using the cartridges?
Drop that and at least use this:
With the right spring tension you will have a lot better grip from the gear.

But either print it in ABS or use extra cooling for the motor and drive housing. Because with the temperature of the motor PLA will warp a lot and look like this and stop working:

And if it still fails, you can always fall back to only using the upper motor in the head and feed filament firectly from the top.

Hey 3D, thank you for the tips on the sprig tension. at this moment the setup is actually with jpod’s side spool attachment feeding it directly into the top stepper motor that squeezes the filament in, Oh, and thats why I was asking if we are not using the bottom stepper we should change the current input on the motor drive. I figured wiring the filament directly from top might be less troublesome with less winding of the filament. :smiley:

How did you manage that (nice prints)?

  • After bed leveling or making any changes to slic3r I do a 1cm cube test to check if that change makes it better or worst. I might be lucky, the printer have some issues that I was able to figure out, other than that perhaps my printing mileage is not too high yet, so everything is still working.

Did you use the fan for cooling?

  • My left fan for some reason can’t be turned on (with M106 S#) :frowning: . So I hooked the fan on to a 9V battery and turn the fan on manually when it is doing a lot of overhang,

Once I use the cooling fan, it mostly cools my hotend and results in a fast clogging.

  • what temperature do you usually do your prints at? so far I have been experimenting only with PLA (no higher than 220c blue hatchbox brand)

And I can see your Fan outlets are not melted or warped. You are lucky.

  • Ya, I saw one of the salvaged unit with PLA/ABS fused all over the fan outlets, impossible to recover. Scary stuff…It haven’t melted prob because I haven’t done any printing with ABS which require a higher temperature.

Anyways, good luck! It requires a lot of patience and time. just a general advise, but you prob know. hand-tight everything and make sure it is firmly tight!

Ok, thanks.

I am printing mostly PLA with 215 on first layer and 205 for the rest.
But I did some ABS prints as well with 245 on first layer and 240 on the rest.
My fan outlets where not correct from the start. They mostly blew inside the head cover. Thats one reason I had so many clogging. Now all fan outlets are melted and warped and useless. I tried to salvage with blue tape and cover all holes, but without the head cover it still cools down my hotend quite fast. So I cannot use it. Interestingly enough the blue tape did not mind the temperatures and remained intact.
I need some replacement or adapter to make the air flow more precise on the object and as little as possible on the hotend. But lacking the 3D design skills…sadly I have to turn off cooling and hope for someone to design an alternative bottom part (air outlets) for the fans.
Something like this seems better, that have a big fan directed 45° on build plate:

Or an adapter like this:

But what printing material could take the heat and not warp?

Hey KingMartin, I tried to slice with KissSlicer but result was bad. Could you please share your settings ?

That´s my model of the Filament driver that you use! That really makes me kind of proud…
As the first guy on Thingiverse wrote that his Part warped a lot after a certain time of usage, I didn´t believe it. But your picture shows the problem very clearly!
In fact, I still use the first one that I printed before uploading the parts without any problems. I don´t use the cartridge-cover or the electronics-cover at all and my steppers never heat up more than about 45°C, even in night-long prints.
Maybe you should check why your stepper drive is so hot!? (Or just put a piece of an old CPU cooler to the backside of the motor to give it cooling-fins)

I’m having problems printing with octoprint and could use some help. I’m using simplify 3d to print. i created the gcode and upload to octoprint. once my right extruder t0 reaches temp. it just turns off and my print never starts. I’m not sure why.

I would be open to using the octoprint cura slicer but i have no idea what to use as a profile so I’m kinda stuck.

Can anyone help point me in the right direction?