Yes, I posted about Z wobble improvement.
Please see following;
My case of 32bit upgrade
Thank you for comment.
Now, my Zim is up and running with 32bit board.
I will continue to post about Marlin FW “How I did” later on.
I really like what you did! My private ZIM that I had modified with a E3D Hotend with a bowden setup had to move for a Sapphire Pro a few months ago. But when I see your mods, I really wonder if I could put the direct drive head back in and use it for small parts and flex… hmmmm…
Just finished my work, but soon I should do hose hold work too.
I will continue to post about Marlin FW setup.
It is first time to setup Marlin, so maybe I was doing not correct way.
For now, machine is running fine.
Kind of initial setup.
I choose TFT35 v2.0 LCD touch panel.
Setup for End stops
I set software end stop for Max.
Setup for pin assignment of End stops
Setup for stepper motors.
I don’t know how to define motor current in FW.
Therefore, I am using Gcode script when start printing in Oct Print.
After started print (and paused), then M122 indicates motor current what I set.
Well, I don’t know optimal current for Zim.
Need to tune later on.
Setup for FAN and thermal safety.
Temperature at nozzle drops a bit right after object FAN started, it caused sudden stop.
Increased tolerance of temp “HYSTERISIS”.
Setup for LEDs
I choose NeoPixel GRB.
Possible to choose GRBW if you like.
I added custom command in Oct Print.
Setup for filament diameter 1.75 and so on.
Skew (back slash) compensation.
This is only an example.
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Thank you for comment.
I saw your modification and started to think about E3D head usage too.
Actually I bought it and tried to design whole head.
Because really difficult to get spare parts around head.
Replacement of Zim head is big problem to me.
Following is just an idea, virtually rejected because difficult to attach to Zim, I want direct-drive feeder and object cooling duct.
Head modification will be next step.
Considering about head replacement is still ongoing.
Wow. That is impressive as heck. Thanks SO MUCH for posting the detailed instructions.
I have several zeepros, all with borked extruders. So I am looking forward to see how you do it. Several folks have put bowdens on thiers, but I agree with you, DIRECT DRIVE is best.
If you figure out how to get your nozzle set up, I will buy you a beer!
THANKS AGAIN FOR TAKING THE TIME>>> you are smart and kind.
Agreed this is very impressive. What do you mean by the nozzle setup? any chance this could help?
Scroll all the way to the bottom
Really difficult to design 3D printable direct-drive head for Zim.
So I decided to start from easier way.
It is not pure direct drive, but I think it is close to direct.
Designed like following.
I use ABS.
Needs cooling duct for object, it works great for ABS printing.
Designed two versions to fit different shape of heat block.
Thinking about how to mount extruder motor above carriage.
Possible to detach tubing below extruder motor.
Not yet tested these.
I will do the test but takes time because I have to care my child and have to do household work…
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Uploaded files.
Not yet tested !!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774109
I will do test these later on.
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Awesome. Thanks for this!!
Installed for test purpose.
Received thinner motor.
Unfortunately, 32bit board is broken.
It will not start up anymore.
I guess it was caused by ESD (Electro static discharge).
I am ordering another spare board.
Waiting for delivery.
Purchased SKR v1.4 Turbo because stock is in domestic, faster delivery.
Ordering the same board SKR Pro v1.2 but it seems takes time so much.
Still ongoing setup and wiring work.
I think I can continue tonight after my son asleep hopefully.
Tested several ABS printing.
Nozzle temp 240, bed temp 70.
Cooling duct for printing object works great for ABS printing.
Tested without silicone boots around heat-block also, nozzle temp would not drop when started cooling.
By the way, SKR v1.4 turbo has only one power inlet.
Can not connect two power supply.
Now using singular power supply (12v 11.5A) , no issues but power supply was heating.
Haven’t tried higher bed temp than 70c.
Still waiting for SKR Pro v1.2 delivery.
This board can use two power supply.
Trying to make direct drive replacement.
Not tested yet !!
See thingiverse ;
Attached by zip-tie.
Looks so so.
Not tested yet !!
Tried several ABS printing, looks OK.
Requires following items.
Updated the design and now more easier to assemble.
I am grad to see this.
Seems so many Zims are still working somewhere.
Modified for BL touch.
Please see Thingiverse (not tested yet).
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812130
Marlin setup is not finished yet.
Still ongoing.
About marlin setup, enabled following ;
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
#define BLTOUCH
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 5, -33, -3.3 }
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3
#define BABYSTEPPING
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#define LCD_BED_LEVELING
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST
Connected BL touch to SKR pro v1.2
Working well !
Always stable 1st layer.