My case of 32bit upgrade

[SuFu]

I don`t know whether this topic interests someone or not, I will share anyway.
Zim is now become really old machine but mechanics and chassis are really nice I think.
It is worth to upgrade.

Main reason for upgrade is, to solve “pause and go” problem.
And I wanted to compensate skew (backslash) too.

I choose Big tree tech SKR Pro V1.2 + TMC2209

Now it looks like this.

Possible to operate via LCD touch panel.
Oct Print is also available, Raspberry Pi is connected via USB.

Soldered wires behind connection board at head.

Before install new board, tested to drive stepper motors and limit switches.
In the beginning, motor would not rotate at all.
Found that motor cable was wrongly connected.

I was confused about limit switches.
Seems Zim has NC (normal closed) switches.
Finally, connected like following.
Red wires for limit switches are for GND, so I should have used black wires…

Connected Neo Pixel LED for chamber light like above.
I use RGB, possible to select RGBW.
I will mention about LED later.

In the beginning, limit sensor did not work at all.
Found that needed to cut one pin at motor driver TMC2209.

I use two stepper motors for one nozzle, therefore need to connect two motors in series.

12v power connection for board and motors (and hot end).

12v power connection for heated bed.

Thermistors.

FANs.

I will continue more about Marlin FW setup later on.

[Machina]

Very Cool. Agreed that it is a solidly built chassis, and well designed too. Pity the company went down like it did.

Ive actually been working on doing this but with a skr 1.3 and a e3d v6. Did you post anything anywhere about fixing the z axis wobble?

[grege]

Thank you for the post SuFu I agree this is a great project.
Looks as if you are quite advanced with your upgrade.
Please keep us informed

[SuFu]

Yes, I posted about Z wobble improvement.
Please see following;

I solved my Z wobble!

Yes you can change the steps using M92. But in case of the Original ZIM that handles the slicing you can’t. I use an original Zim and generaly I use the internal slicer. so I prefer keep the genuine parts the 2mm per turn screw is more precise and there is no risk of the Z axis sling down with the inertia when the machine is powered off

[SuFu]

Thank you for comment.
Now, my Zim is up and running with 32bit board.

I will continue to post about Marlin FW “How I did” later on.

[J_Schmidt]

I really like what you did! My private ZIM that I had modified with a E3D Hotend with a bowden setup had to move for a Sapphire Pro a few months ago. But when I see your mods, I really wonder if I could put the direct drive head back in and use it for small parts and flex… hmmmm…

[SuFu]

Just finished my work, but soon I should do hose hold work too.
I will continue to post about Marlin FW setup.
It is first time to setup Marlin, so maybe I was doing not correct way.
For now, machine is running fine.

Kind of initial setup.
I choose TFT35 v2.0 LCD touch panel.

Setup for End stops

I set software end stop for Max.

Setup for pin assignment of End stops

Setup for stepper motors.

I don’t know how to define motor current in FW.
Therefore, I am using Gcode script when start printing in Oct Print.

After started print (and paused), then M122 indicates motor current what I set.
Well, I don’t know optimal current for Zim.
Need to tune later on.

Setup for FAN and thermal safety.

Temperature at nozzle drops a bit right after object FAN started, it caused sudden stop.
Increased tolerance of temp “HYSTERISIS”.

Setup for LEDs
I choose NeoPixel GRB.
Possible to choose GRBW if you like.

I added custom command in Oct Print.

Setup for filament diameter 1.75 and so on.

Skew (back slash) compensation.
This is only an example.

[SuFu]

Thank you for comment.
I saw your modification and started to think about E3D head usage too.
Actually I bought it and tried to design whole head.
Because really difficult to get spare parts around head.
Replacement of Zim head is big problem to me.

Following is just an idea, virtually rejected because difficult to attach to Zim, I want direct-drive feeder and object cooling duct.

Head modification will be next step.
Considering about head replacement is still ongoing.

[neoteric]

Wow. That is impressive as heck. Thanks SO MUCH for posting the detailed instructions.

I have several zeepros, all with borked extruders. So I am looking forward to see how you do it. Several folks have put bowdens on thiers, but I agree with you, DIRECT DRIVE is best.
If you figure out how to get your nozzle set up, I will buy you a beer!

THANKS AGAIN FOR TAKING THE TIME>>> you are smart and kind.

[Machina]

Agreed this is very impressive. What do you mean by the nozzle setup? any chance this could help?

Scroll all the way to the bottom

Custom hot ends for the Zim

I just received 20 Nozzles Anyone interested ? [IMG_20210204_152049] [IMG_20210204_152054] [IMG_20210204_152120]

[SuFu]

Really difficult to design 3D printable direct-drive head for Zim.
So I decided to start from easier way.
It is not pure direct drive, but I think it is close to direct.

Designed like following.
I use ABS.
Needs cooling duct for object, it works great for ABS printing.

Designed two versions to fit different shape of heat block.

Thinking about how to mount extruder motor above carriage.

Possible to detach tubing below extruder motor.

Not yet tested these.
I will do the test but takes time because I have to care my child and have to do household work…

[SuFu]

Uploaded files.
Not yet tested !!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774109

I will do test these later on.

[neoteric]

Awesome. Thanks for this!!

[SuFu]

Installed for test purpose.

Received thinner motor.

Unfortunately, 32bit board is broken.
It will not start up anymore.
I guess it was caused by ESD (Electro static discharge).

I am ordering another spare board.
Waiting for delivery.

[SuFu]

Purchased SKR v1.4 Turbo because stock is in domestic, faster delivery.
Ordering the same board SKR Pro v1.2 but it seems takes time so much.

Still ongoing setup and wiring work.

I think I can continue tonight after my son asleep hopefully.

[SuFu]

Seems running OK.
It is PLA printing.

I should try ABS later too.

[SuFu]

Tested several ABS printing.
Nozzle temp 240, bed temp 70.

Cooling duct for printing object works great for ABS printing.
Tested without silicone boots around heat-block also, nozzle temp would not drop when started cooling.

By the way, SKR v1.4 turbo has only one power inlet.
Can not connect two power supply.
Now using singular power supply (12v 11.5A) , no issues but power supply was heating.
Haven’t tried higher bed temp than 70c.

Still waiting for SKR Pro v1.2 delivery.
This board can use two power supply.

[SuFu]

Trying to make direct drive replacement.
Not tested yet !!
See thingiverse ;

Direct drive E3D head for Zeepro Zim by SuFu00086

Attached by zip-tie.
Looks so so.
Not tested yet !!

[SuFu]

Tried several ABS printing, looks OK.

Requires following items.

Updated the design and now more easier to assemble.

[SuFu]

I am grad to see this.
Seems so many Zims are still working somewhere.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812130