Is the Zim still competitive in 2016?

#1

There’s been an influx of interest in zims, as theres the current liquidation for cheap, that puts it even below the Monoprice bare bones model. It’s probably the cheapest 3d printer out there at this time for new users.

Given that this printer is older, how does everyone feel it holds up? Anyone own other models to compare it to? Anything you wish you had in the Zim? Where is it lacking in specs/feaures? I’m trying to catch up as fast as i can. So far I’m loving this thing, but worried I’m missing something.

I am one of those folks that picked it up cheap. Build quality seems quite nice, precision is well enough for my needs, setting it up with opensource software was easy, thanks to massive work by folks here, but how does it compare with current-gen FDM printers? I ask only because of my lack of familiarity with new models, and it’s hard to gauge quality by pics on the internet. My results are only after 6 hours or so of actual printing, and it’s my first 3d printer, so I can’t accurately gauge what current state of art is.

Where is it lacking? There’s annoyances with sourcing new nozzles, and the aftermarket hot ends approach cost of a whole new unit. So there are downsides.

It’s cheap, and seems to work nicely after calibration, so I was considering getting a second so i can parallelize printing, as its slow as all get-out as all printers are.

Also, seems cheap enough given the parts that it’s a prime candidate for conversion to other tools like a laser engraver. I mean, it has 7 NEMA 17 motors in it, and enough commodity parts that it seems like one could part out what they don’t need and end up with a mostly-free 3d gantry system. So, what am I missing?

#2

You have hit all of the good points the Zim has.The down side is that it has no manufacturer’s support. This prevents selling to a very large numbers of people. You apparently have some computer savvy as you were able to convert to open software. This is something that is not as common as say the ability to run a microwave oven. This is that missing thing that has you worried. Factory support. You are your own support person and do not need the factory. Your ability to do the conversion eliminates that problem and makes the Zim an good buy for you.

The hardware, as you pointed out, is excellent and the mods on the blog makes it a usable machine. There is no current way to get around the s…l…o…w aspect of 3D printing.

I retired mine as i needed a larger working area for what I found I wanted to do. I have a heated bed and some aftermarket extrude I am willing to part with cheep. email me at < tint36648"at"mypacks.net>.
John

#3

I see your point. Thanks for confirming the machine is not obsolete by current spec. Looks like DLP is likely the future, but til prices come down, the zim seems pretty nice for the price.

I guess I figured all users here eventually found their way to running their zim’s on a pi or otherwise.

Is it not the case that most users have upgraded to octoprint?

Seems like we could remedy that if there were demand. Make it so its just as easy as loading normal firmware (2 screws, a microSD card, and some free software for OSX/Win to burn the image to the card). Maybe look at supporting astroprint as well.

#4

no way. I invented my own DLP machine and have to say that the resin is a huge mess: takes incredible long to clean the parts and in liquid state the resin is supposed to cause cancer if exposed to skin over a longer period (depends on the resin, I know). Another downside is the sticking on the cure chamber and/or the build plate.
In my eyes the future is something like the bubble jet machines as you can “extrude” multible materials or sintering - but still a mess at home (or in your workshop) with the fine powder.

Back to topic: I run my ZIM via Octoprint and it is -after a lot of tweaking- a VERY good machine on the hardware side: prints better than the Stratasys FDM machines which cost > 30k :slight_smile:

#5

ha. well, I’ll retract my concern. I thought DLP was super high resolution without all the worry of the printer crapping itself over aberrant behavior. I guess all printing has its downsides.

Yea, while I had 1 failed print out of 5 so far on the zim (shifted layers on me, i think it hit a mighty big blob of waste), I’ve only been printing at low quality in cura, and the zim has been above (albeit low) expectations. ribbing has been minimal, and it seems like most of my problems are configuration/experience/software related. when it wants to print nice, it prints wonderfully.

I’m still not sure where normal expectations are. for now, a functional print with poor surface finish (compared to retail products) is fine for structural/functional parts for my shop and whatnot. But i’d like to be able to eventually find something that has ability to print at higher quality for show. I havn’t scratched surface of reducing Z layer thickness, but I assume it comes at cost of 10+ hour prints. :confused: So, this is all likely on me, I’m more curious how far folks have been able to push the quality of the zim. If I tune every last parameter, and calibrate it to pieces, is it able to give me perfection given the effort?

#6

The Zim is, as noted, very good mechanically so the X,Y resolution is there. For the smoother surface a smaller nozzle opening is needed. A 0.2 is the smallest I have seen advertised, physics gets in the way of pushing thick liquids out a tiny hole.I got good prints out of mine but I did remove the second head as it kept hitting the part and causing the layers to shift. The shifted layers you are getting are most probably caused by the small blobs that occur when the plastic is not stopped when the head stops moving. A software parameter, or the temp is to high allowing the plastic to flow by gravity.

Yes parameters in the software are what define what happens and are a confusing array and somewhat interactive. The good part is anything learned is transferable to other machines.

Smooth surfaces are the domain of the resin printers, period. The resin mess is the price to pay for the surface quality.

When my father taught me photography he gave me a Brownie Hawkeye to use. It was a cheep non adjustable camera. My objection to such a simple camera was answered with “When you can take a good picture with that one i will get you a better one”. The Zim is a better 3D printer than that Brownie Hawkeye was a camera. Consider it a learning tool and pat yourself on the back for finding an expensive way to learn 3D printing.

John

#7

Thanks. Good call on removing the second head (til I have a reason to need both).
I’ll check the retraction settings and temps. I think I’ve seen some settings threads around on here (at least for simplify3d,maybe for others)

BTW, sent you an email about the heated bed. Maybe it went to spam.

#9

I mean, its been a whole 22 days brother.

What miracles have arisen since november!?
@wallorco. What are we missing out on? Whole industry is still looking ez bake oven level to me…

#10

maybe he’s foreseeing a massive change incoming in 2017

like a $200 prusa mk2 lol

or some leap in technology away from nema 17s and standard hotends

tbh the biggest change i see is 32 bit becoming standard and automation, but you can make those kinds of mods to the zim

#11

All the upgrades that I can think of can be made to work with the zim. A new controller board can be made from a ramps or any ramps based board, as that’s what it already is. The stepper drivers can be upgraded, they’re almost plug and play. You could fit an aftermarket hot end with some modification, I don’t really see any worthwhile upgrades. The only recent developments I’ve ran across are wireless printing, which we have via the cubie or a raspberry pi, optical end stops and automatic bed leveling which really seem to me like gimmicks more than anything. I’ll just say, my school has a $15,000 uPrint SE, and with my $150 zim, we produce models of the same detail

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#12

I agree my school also had a very expensive printer. It was about the size of a refrigerator and my zeepro has been producing results just as good if not better. And to be honest my zeepro has gotten to a point where I’m thoroughly impressed. And I don’t expect a printer that does not use resin to get a whole lot better because the only issues I’ve been having is overhangs.

#13

The only thing I am missing is automatic bed leveling. With that I mean that the whole surface is measured in detail and the printer adapts to the bed level differences automatically.

#14

May be a nice feature (my Prusa i3 has a bed probe) but I never needed it on my Zim: stays accurate over months of heavy operating!

#15

Wow, I have to constantly adjust, for every print and sometimes even in between. Only when I print for days without stop and the whole system is completely and thoroughly heated up, I don’t need to adjust anymore.
And my surface is not completely level, so that some areas make adhesion problems for large objects. The center is level, but the more I get to the borders, the more it differs. Its not more than 0.1mm but thats enough for first layer problems for big objects, curling edges.
So at least for me that auto level feature would save me a lot of stress and time :slight_smile:

#16

How about now in 2017 for 125$ if i can get it should i? Or what

#17

If it’s in good condition, go for it. Makes for a nice little PLA printer.

#18

I would buy zims all day long for $125.

I don’t know what all the hype is about auto leveling. Once I set the level it’s good for months and months. Usually the tape will wear out before the level goes out of wack. I also print the first layer 200% high and wide to maximize adhesion. It’s noticeable, but worth the repeatability.

#19

Well i won a brand new unit off ebay for 150$+ 30shipping didnt realize how large it was so 180$ total which from What i have gathered if u can get it for 200 or less its a steal . i also i already luckly own rasberry Pi 3 with wifi built in that ill swap in.

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