How do you remove parts that are stuck to the bed?

#1

Does anyone have a problem with there heated bed being to sticky?

I have been using the aquanet to get parts to stick to my heated bed which has been working great. However I printed a part with a larger surface area than what I have been printing (and it stuck really well). Basically printed a 55mm cube and when I went to pull it off the bed I ended up cracking my heated bed.

So my question is how are others managing to remove prints from the bed?

#2

I use PEI 0.03" surface from Amazon, cut to fit the bed and double stickied to the glass. It is magical. PLA sticks like it’s glued at 60C , and pops right off at room temp.

#3

Thanks Jpod
I will order some and give it a try.

I’m assuming this is the stuff. Link for easy reference for others. :wink:

#4

That’s the stuff. Get some 3m double sticky also to stick it down. One side is smooth as glass, the other has an ultra fine scuffiness. I used the scuffy side up (shiny side down). I think it just affects surface finish of the part though, not stickiness.

1 Like
#5

I have a 1mm steel sheet on every printbed mountend with office clamps.
When the print is done I can remove the steel sheet and bend it a bit -> pops off. That’s pretty similar to Stratasys as also their print surface is removable and bendable!

1 Like
#6

Does the heated bed still work ok through the steel? I could get steel sheet pretty easily from work. I might try both options and see which works better.

Thanks for the help guys!

#7

If it heats up a 4 or 5mm glass plate it will heat up 1-2mm of steel too :wink:

#8

The sheet I got is smooth on both sides. Which hasn’t been a problem and its working great. Prints stick great while printing and then pop off easily once they are cool. Thanks for the advice!

#9

Yeah, I just bought a second sheet and it was smooth on both sides. Sure leaves a nice finish on the side next to the build plate! :slight_smile:

#10

Do you mean you tested my advise by using a sheet of 1mm (or similar) metal or are you talking about the PEI sheed mentiond above?

#11

Second PEI sheet, now has no rough side. I just bought another and put it on my M2.

#12

I used the PEI sheet but I will keep your advice in mind as well since I can get metal sheet from work.

#13

I use “cold spray” that is cheap and is able to cool down to -45 Celsius.
Once the print has cooled down and is still stuck a few short bursts of the spray and voila its free :slight_smile:

1 Like
#14

Adding on 2 years later: If anyone has those air cans you can flip the can over and spray at the base and it will pop off