hmm… according the the zeepro specs the original diameter is .35 and that is what I have been using in slic3r and how I have octoprint set up. Have I had this set up wrong the entire time?
From specs off the zeepro site:
- Nozzle Diameter: 0.35 mm
Custom hot ends for the Zim
@inventor121, The hot ends are now back in stock.
@Cal, If you’re using the standard Zeepro slic3r, no modifications are necessary.
How do you adjust the bed position for the new heater blocks? Zim with a heated bed even adjusted all the way down doesn’t hit the end stop with the new nozzle before the bed hits the nozzle.
Thanks.
I suggest using a bumper such as the one shown here
I just use an adhesive bumper like the ones used on cabinet doors to keep them from slamming shut, but anything that’s 1/8" to 1/4" thick that you can stick on there will do.
I have been using these hot ends for about 3 weeks now and they were working well until last night. Last night one of the heads started to read wrong temperatures, it will show 180, 240, 190, 270 and just keep bouncing around like that so the printer won’t print because it gets head over temp warnings. I’m using repiter host on my computer with a USB connection for reference. I’m guessing its a lose wire but I tried wiggling the wires on the printer head with no effect. Does anyone have any ideas for fixing this? Also since its head 1 I can’t use head 2 because the printer always heats both heads when I try and use head 2 so it faults out on head 1 now.
I had a similar issue. Without warning, the temperature popped up to 1200°C. While wiggling at the cable, it went down to normal, and up again, until it fell down to 0°C. And I knew I broke it (Hell, yeah, I´m Einstein! 
)
So, I carefully pulled out the sensor, which was fixed with a red rubber-like glue or thermal paste or whatever.
The sensor itself is extremely small and the cables seem to be enameled copper wires. The position where those are soldered to the normal wires seems not to be insulated seperately, only by this strange red rubber. So, the heat and some cable movement could cause a short circuit.
I re-soldered the wires and put on some heat shrink tubes to avoid contact. Works well, although I stuffed the sensor into the hole in the hotend without any heat conductive paste.
Thanks, I will try pulling that out when I get home and see if I can resolder it.
Maybe you should try heating the hotend up before pulling the sensor out. (just connect the heater without the sensor, it should heat up (printer reads 0°C). But be careful not to burn the hotend.
@Insomnia:
You designed the throat pieces with 30mm length. Would it be possible to make them about 5 or 6mm longer in the next batch? Now, theres a lot more space between the drive gear and the beginning of the throat compared to the original parts. For printing ABS or PLA, that´s not a Problem, but when printing flexible material, it is impossible to handle.
BTW: I like those new nozzles. I sanded them down a tiny bit with a whetstone to have a nice consistent rim all around the hole.
@scientsit434 The thermistors are sealed in with a high heat silicone compound. If you’re getting erroneous temperature readings it is most likely that the wires have developed a short of some kind. If you carefully pull on the thermistor wires, the thermistor should come out of its hole and allow you to inspect it. If you’re unable to resolve the short on your own, send an email to 3dprintermods and I’ll get a replacement part out to you complete with simple replacement instructions.
@J_Schmidt, The 30mm throat pieces are a standard rep rap part. Unfortunately, they only come in 2 sizes, 26 and 30mm. I’ll check back when I have a solution for the issue.
I think I found the problem. The wire insulation melted and is shorting against the heater block. I will try to add some kind of insulator and see if it will start working. I just started printing ABS so I’m guessing its the higher temps with ABS that caused the problems.
@scientsit434 Go ahead ahead and send that one back and I’ll get you a replacement. The new ones have a heat resistant sleeve added to prevent that from occurring.
@Insomnia, I have 4 of the originals (first batch). Is it just heat shrink that was added, or is there more to it than that?
need some help.
My nozzle jam… when I tried to remove hot end and the other part, wires broke…
what should I do ? I can’t solder because wires broke at base.
That looks like my problem, the wire in my picture that had all the copper exposed broke as well when I was removing the head. Yours looks like one of the early versions if you look at the 3dprintermod website the new ones have some of that red wrap around them I’m guessing to protect them from heat.
@insomnia I ordered a spare pair of heads, if you get me your address to send the bad one I have back you can wait and ship the replacement to me with the two I just ordered today.
Indeed, It was first batch.
My other heater block has same issue…
I have to remove them and put back Zim heater block.
I took a break from trying to get the printer going but am ready to start the frustration again. I received the ‘pigtails’ and am wondering how I get them connected to the board? The thermo plugs have ripped right off since I tried removing a plug and I am stumped. I can solder two small wires together but not sure how to get the securely connected. Any tips? I would pay someone to do this if I knew how to find someone that can do something this specific.
@Jpod, The hot ends have gone through about 3 revisions to date. The difference in all 3 revisions being only the adhesive used to assemble the components. The first units were assembled using a high heat epoxy. The adhesive on these units is gray in color. I have not had any reported issues with regard to these units.
The second revision replaced the epoxy with a high heat silicone compound. These are the ones that a very small percentage of users are reporting issues with. in rare instances the wires from the thermistor make contact with a hot surface which results in wire insulation failure.
The final and current revision added a heat resistant mesh sleeve to the wires as they exit the side of the heat block. This protects them from making contact with any hot surfaces.
@madaman13, the best way to do this repair is to remove the board from the print head. be sure to mark all the connections, taking photographs usually works well for this. identify the contact points on the board where the pins were attached. You should be able to see small holes in the board where the pins from the old port were attached. You may need to use your soldering tool to clear out the holes. Push the stripped portion of the pigtail wire through the hole. Apply a little bit of solder to the tip of the pigtail wire to solder it to the board. Repeat for the other wire.