Does anyone have news about backslash issue ?
Circle shape is oval
@rnordell Ryan did you ever have a chance to upload your design for the adapter plate? I have a cnc mill and would like to try my hand at making one. Great solution btw.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2Cm-i4gQrm0MUNFMGhSemlYSFk&usp=sharing
I created a shared google drive folder where I put a quick pdf print of the assembly as well as a step and iges of the āAdapter Plateā I made.
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Thanks Ryan! I canāt wait to try it out.
Great ! Thank you Ryan !
Do you think if PLA or ABS for this plate could be strong enough ?
You could try to print it but I think it would need to be close to 100% fill. It is only 0.125 inches thick because there is not much space to put the part and still clear the belt (it essentially replaces one of the bearings in the stack). Depending on the belt tension it might flex that plate too much, but I think it is worth a try.
I did the plate with ABS. i hope it will be fine. I didnāt try yet because I have a doubt about my head wire connection.
Can anyone confirm my head connection ? I donāt know if this āextra platic squarreā is in top or bottom in pin connection.
I hope my explanation is clearā¦
thank you.
ps : I will post some pictures of backlash fix process.
pps : My zimboard is dead, I will receive a new one. (extruder right fan doesnāt respond)
Any chance someone with better CAD tools than I have can convert this part to STL or SKP so I can play too? Iām thinking if we oversize it a bit from itās small triangular shape, it should be plenty strong 
Thanks!
Another idea for those of us that just have simple tools like drill presses, is to 3D print a nice drill template that can be used to drill out the 3 holes in a piece of 1/8" aluminum. Not sure how to do that bored out section though with a drill pressā¦ maybe some janky plunge cuts with an endmill bit could work well enough.
If this is a proper fix, it would be great if Zeepro could set us up with some retrofit parts 
I used FreeCAD to convert to STL. (I used adapterPlate.stp)
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Cool! Good to know. Do you think there is room to make the part bigger, but at the same thicknessā¦ thereby giving it more strength?
remove gantry was difficult because of LED wiring. I took 15-20mins to remove properly glued wires.
I have no mill so I cutted with my swissKnife. it was a little long because I did it manually.
Very slow print (nearly 30min)
Extras parts need :
- adaptor plate
- Screw M5 x 20 Countersunk Head Screw with Hexagon Socket
- Screw M5x12 Button Head Screw with Hexagon Socket
- 3 Washer M5 5mm washer
- 1 M5 Nut Hex Nut
others parts (in parts list description on ryan documentions) : I reused zim parts
I didnāt print yet because I have zimboard issue.
Thanks for the pics! Thatās really helpful Iāve had my Zim disassembled this muchā¦ not really looking forward to that part again!
Eric, I opened mine up and it appears the plastic key is on the bottom (e.g. facing the circuit board). Mine looks like your picture. You probably want to ask Zeepro to be sure though, it would suck to burn it up. It is unfortunate that Zeepro elected not populate a keyed socket for the header on the circuit board.
Thank you Jpod,
Indeed it is right connected but I guess iām facing other issue with my zimboardā¦ I found one of my missing top cover magnet (unglued) magneted on my zimboardā¦ It should short something.
Iām in contact with Pierre (zeepro).
It is too bad, I did backlash fix but I canāt print 
Here a print with ryanās fix.
this kind of print was impossible to me before fix because holes were always misshapen.
original objet was from thingiverse but sorry i couldnāt find the link.
It was for a M6 nut
Glad to see that your printer is back up and running and that the print quality has improved