I printed several parts with Zeepro and PVA - works well so far.
Here my settings:
3mm retract
190°C
15mm/s speed
NO fan/cooling!
But I have to say that the material is so soft that its fine for support but never ever to build a model out of it. 
we’re all newbs 
i read this article that describes best practices for creating models that need less support. It actually helped a lot in my latest print, but my print was destroyed by the second extruder head knocking the model free from the platform https://twitter.com/demonkid/status/557280827021983744
Thanks, how are you sticking your first layer to the glass? Are you using glue or blue tape or something else?
the funky purple glue stick i got with the Zim. there is a bit of timing involved, print to early and the glue is to wet to stick, print to late and the glue is too dry to stick.
I simply add blue tape onto the printbed and also added blue tape on the area where the z endstop is triggered - so there was no need to align the bed as the bluetape is about 0,1mm thick.
Before printing make sure to press the bluetape onto the bed especially at the boarders of the tape.
I print at layer hights of 0,15mm but in reality my first layer is slightly lower so the filament is pushed against the blue tape.
I also own a RepRap and bluetape works so well that I hardly can remove my parts from the printbed on both my FDM printers (RepRap and ZIM) - sometimes it’s a nighmare to get the parts off the printbed 
If you do get problems to let the PVA stick on your bed (as described PLA works too well) I usually add a 0,3 (2 layers of 0,15mm) plate and let the PVA support print onto this “printhelper”. Later you can easily remove this printhelper with a knife!
Do you have a good set of overall custom reccomended settings the issue I keep having is the slicer will create a very thing verticle support material and after a few layers that one slim vertical support will start to bend and eventually wont be able to support the top layers, then the printer begins to print on air at that point when the support collapses into a spiderweb. Ive tried modifying the settings but I pain in the butt to change something and test it a realize it just fails again. I dont mind having to overkill on the support if means it wil come out correctly expecially since the Zim doesnt give you a slicer preview so its just guess and check.
Would be greta if the software could give a preview of how it plans to add supports so we can decide ‘thats not gonna work’
I stopped working with the ZIM software completely: there are so much limitations I don’t want to deal with.
Usually I print my supports with PVA, 190°C, 0,15mm layers, 20mm/s maximum print speed, no cooling and 1,5mm inflate.
Inflate means that I print far too much support on each side of the supported area (1,5mm) but it works pretty well for me.
Martin : “I stopped working with the ZIM software completely”… how ? I’m interested, I’m not an 3d printer expert but I don’t like Zim software. Zim web page is a lot a time down for me.
Loki : there is a gcode preview with 1.4, I didn’t try it yet.
Martin,
Are you connecting directly to the Zim using the USB port on the Zims stepper motor control board, after first disconnecting the Cubieboard from the stepper motor controller?
Exactly:
You don’t have this easy interface anymore as I disconnected the left electronic board inside the ZIM bottom but you’re free to use ANY slicing software and ANY filament you want!
I had to tear my zim apart to fix backlash on my y axis that was making circular objects oval shaped. I ended up slightly re-routing the drive belt. Zee pro is actually testing my modification on their end and I would not be surprised if they revise the Y axis servo motor holder. Anyway, I picked the plug out as well, but didn’t like the result from having the superglue in the jack so I ended up unsoldering it and replacing it with a new jack. I thought about disconnecting the cubie at this time but thought “one thing at a time” so I think this will be the next mod.
Thanks for the advice,
Ryan
where is this “inflate” option in the Zim software?
I asked Emily with Zeepro about using PVA filament since it was mentioned in one of the comments in the backer space on kickstarter and got some good tips for printing with PVA so figured I would post her advice here.
"Printing with PVA provides the opportunity to create great parts which are impossible to make otherwise.
Having said that, it requires some care as it is a tricky material to print with and is only recommended for advanced user.
There are a few rules to follow:
When refilling PVA in a refillable cartidge, the user should always rewrite his cartridge using the procedure in our FAQs to specify the extrusion temperature. We also recommend to dry the PVA filament before spooling it.
The major malfunction risks are :
Wow, PVA sounds very non-consumer friendly. I wouldn’t mind trying it… but not the kind of thing I’d want to print with everyday.
Hey King Martin, could you elaborate a little more about using RepeiterHost? I tried it today but couldn’t establish a usb connection. You mentioned to install free serial to usb software, are you talking about these drivers from FTDI? http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
Yes, install those FTDI drivers first.
Basically the right ZIm board is nothing more than an Arduino Board with routed pins for the stepper motors - if you have problems connecting you can also have a look at people having issues on Arduino connection at Google.
After installing (maybe rebooting too?) start Repetier Host and find your serial connectrion (I usually have 2 and one of them is the right one) and enter 250.000 baud for the speed: connect (or try the other serial connector) and you’re free to play without any limitations
-> don’t forget to unplug the left electronic board (the ZIMboard with the dual USB ports on top) complety from the right borad: unplug the two cables!!)
Hey Martin, got things to work for a couple of days now after reinstalling all the USB driver.
Thanks for everything!
Question: it seems to be getting the connection okay with the left board still part of the system.
Is it alright if I dont disconnect the left board? What would be the downside of having it still plugged in?
I first had it running with the board plugged in.
To have the bed leveling feature of Zeepro Software and printing with Repetier over USB.
It did not seem to make any difference, other than using power and having another device showing up on my network.
But I had to change the bed fixation, and now I don’t have to level that often. I don’t level anymore and just make adjustments on the fly during printing of the brim.
But I would recommend to better unplug it, just to be sure that there are no unwanted effects.
KingMartin,
Can you explain why you disconnected on of the boards (and which one?)
I’m trying to duplicate what others have done to use USB and S3D to control the Zim.
In more recent posts others have done this but I’ve not seen others disconnect any boards unless they added Octopi.
As I understood it, just using S3D and USB circumvented the Zim software.
Did you need to disconnect a board to circumvent RFID or SMTH?